Kitchen kit

WHAT do you buy for the foodie who has everything? Not another pair of novelty oven mitts, is the consensus of the buyers at London’s chicest kitchenware emporia. As tempting as the latest gadgets and objéts d’art seem, no serious cook or eater wants any more culinary clutter.

You won't go far wrong with food, but steer clear of traditional hampers stuffed full of Christmassy preserves and long life pâtés though. The modern foodie would far rather receive really good olive oil, a whole ham or a nice box of marrons glacés. A small selection from Artisan du Chocolat is worth a million tins of Quality Street.

Unusual gadgets (electronic mushroom brushes, caper slicers etc) should be avoided, however indispensable the telly chef du jour claims they are. The job can usually be done with something far simpler. Instead, advises Samantha Paterson of Divertimenti, choose gifts that are multi-purpose: that is, a cook's knife or oven-to-tableware. Always upgrade if you can. Even if your loved one already has a good knife, you can’t underestimate the life-changing potential of a great one. "Invest in quality and well thought out, ergonomic design - especially in the current economic climate", says Katie Grossman, buyer at John Lewis.

Bear in mind there are certain things one can never have too many of - solid steel roasting pans and linen cloths being cases in point. One can, however, have too many bottle openers and too many corkscrews ("That's one people always overdo", says Summerill and Bishop's June Summerill. "I've got 12. I only need one.") As for comedy aprons - yes, even the 'sexy' French maid ones - they're just not that funny.

Trays chic and Graters great

Staub Casserole, from £160, Summerill and Bishop The classic black mini version, as seen in chic restaurants, will probably already be familiar but the new white is even more desirable.
Microplane grater, from £20-£45, Richard Dare What on earth is so special about these cult graters? Try them for yourself and you’ll see. The best method around for zesting lemons, grating ginger and crushing garlic.
Whole Cured Spanish Ham on the Bone, £120-£600, Brindisa Difficult to wrap, but a gift to savour from the first hand carved slice to the stock made from the bone at the end. Buy the priciest 'Joselito' if budget allows.
Cook’s Knife, £80-£150, The Japanese Knife Company Don’t buy a set - 80 per cent of work is done on one knife. Invest instead in a cook's knife that's easy to sharpen, with an eight to ten inch blade and a wide back and narrow front. It will last 20-30 years.
Grape Scissors, £44.95, Divertimenti They break our 'must be useful' rule but are just so lovely, so extravagant, that their revival must surely be imminent.
Corin Mellor Willow Tray, £32, David Mellor An update on the British canteen classic in glossy melamine, ply and willow. Buy all four colours (pea green, navy, white and black). One can never have too many trays.
Recipe Organiser, £15, John Lewis That must have cookbook you were going to buy your foodie pal? They've already got it. Instead, get them an organiser with ample space for notes and clippings from the Observer Food Monthly.
Soda Siphon, £50, Divertimenti Thanks to Mad Men, cocktails are back. Sales of siphons are soaring.
Set of Laguiole Knives, from £369 for 6, The Japanese Knife Company Handmade of Swedish steel and exclusive to the JKC, these are several cuts above copycat 'Laguioles'. Forty different handles are available including olive and ebony.
Mother of Pearl Caviar Spoons, £18 each, Thomas Goode The only way to eat your (sustainable) caviar this Christmas.

Where to buy